Travelled to Prestatyn by train from Abergaveny. Found a
very expensive campsite but we didn't know any better at the
time.Found a pub called the "Queen Victoria" for
the evening .The landlord and 3 of his locals were traveling
to Chepstow the next day to do the walk in the opposite
direction.Got a Chinese takeaway and fell into the tent long
after midnight |
PRESTATYN TO MOEL DYWYLL 7th June 17 miles
Didn't sleep too well due to traffic on the road.Walked to
the beach first thing to start from the sea. Made coffee on
the Triangia outside the Offas Dyke centre, stocked up with
provisions from the Spar shop and set off on our journey. My
feet were killing me by mid morning and after inspecting the
feet, found that my old faithful boots had collapsed on the
inside and had caused horrendous blisters. Crossed lots of
fields today with very high sided stiles, hard to get our
rucksacks through. Good pub in Bodfari where we got a good meal of
steak in ale with chips and a couple of pints of
Caffreys. Climbed up high from here with terrific views of
Snowdonia, sheltered under a tree out of the rain and got
shouted at by a farmer for doing so as it was just off the
path. Finally set up camp on the mountain ridge, made a camp
fire to dry our jumpers and watched the beautiful sunset with a bottle
of wine purchased earlier at the Spar shop in Bodfari. The
Spar shops proved to be a great asset all along the route as
they are open very early in the morning and late at night. |
MOEL DYWYLL TO LLANGOLLEN 8th June 20 miles
Got very windy in the night so not much sleep again. Had
sausages and beans for breakfast. Headed for Moel Fammua
(pronounced-"Vamma"). This section of walking was
tough going, up and down all the time but with fantastic views
out to the west. Stopped in a field below Moel Gyw to brew up
and check the blisters. Just made it to a pub in Llandegla
"the Crown" for some lunch. Not much else in this
village. Climbed up through woods then and through a nature
reserve, startling a grouse from the heather. Very pretty place
called" Worlds End", a valley that
seemed to drop so steeply it could have gone to the
centre of the Earth. Then followed a steeply sided
scree path with beautiful views. Alastair nearly toppled over
the edge at one point. Saw Peregrine Falcons overhead. Left the
official Offas Dyke path at a farm called Dynbren-uchaf for a
detour into Llangollen to hunt for new boots. Found a Spar
shop and stocked up for the evening and found a camping spot
on the canal tow path. Crawled to bed very early.
|
LLANGOLLEN TO TYN-Y-COED 9th June 14 miles
If you need to buy a pair of shoes, then don't ever bother
to go to Llangollen. There is not a shoe shop to be seen. It
was only luck that we came across the Outdoor shop and
managed to get a new pair of boots at a knocked down price
due to there being a closing down sale. Finally left
Llangollen at 10am. Crossed the Aquaduct(scary)and through
Froncasyllte(lovely name to pronounce). Met quite a lot of
people doing the walk in the opposite direction today. Lunched
overlooking Chirk castle then did battle with some farm dogs
that wanted to set upon our dog "Boo Boo", who did
this walk with us. Lots more stiles today, and the Dyke very
prominet. Passed a disused racecourse then after a shower with
rainbows we came through some woods to find a pub called
"the Old Mill" where we were able to camp for the
night.(extremely handy).
|
TYN-Y-COED TO BUTTINGTON 10th June 17 miles
Woke up with a hangover after a good night in the
pub. Hilly start this morning, cloudy, muggy, sticky weather. Got
supplies at a shop in Trefonen. Lovely route through woods to
Llanymynech hill which has a Golf course on top. Got a bit
lost and ended up in Pont then had to retrack to find
Llanymynach. Headed for Four Crosses and stopped in a field
for lunch. Were surrounded by curious Bullocks. Cows became
quite a problem today, they were very skittish due to the
thundery weather and didn't like Boo Boo crossing thier
fields. My feet were extremely sore again today due to
breaking in the new boots, so when we arrived in Buttington we
camped at the nearest house which had a sign outside saying
"camping". |
BUTTINGTON TO EDENHOPE HILL 11th June 15 miles
It had rained a lot during the night but we had a good
nights sleep. Got soaked walking through a waist high field of
barley. Quite a stiff climb up to Beacon ring settlement, very
foggy, lovely spooky woods. Passed a pond called Offas
pond. Found that Forden doesn't have much in the way to offer
us for supplies so we took a detour down the main road to
Montgommery as we were running out of Metholated Spirit for
our Triangia stove. Alastair found a four leaf clover on the way
there. Everyone seemed incredibly friendly in
Montgomery as we sat in the main square and cooked our
lunch. Bought more plasters for my feet and set off to rejoin
the official path. Called at a house near Brompten hall to ask
for water and got fresh spring water(tasted
delicious). Climbed up again this time with clear views and
found a secluded spot to camp in a field in a valley near
Eden Hope hill. Terrific thunder and lightening display this
evening and at one point I thought a flock of sheep were
going to trample the tent in their haste to get out of the
weather.
|
EDENHOPE HILL TO KNIGHTON 12th June 12miles
Packed away a wet tent . Sheltered in a church gate at
Newcastle to brew morning coffee.T his section of the route is
known as the "Switchback". Up and Down all day
long. Saw a sign for teas and cakes near to Garbett hall so
went to find a delightful little garden with two tables and
got the best cup of tea and warm scones ever. Beautiful views
coming down into Knighton. Halfway point here. Met up with the guys
who we'd met in Prestatyn on Friday night. We sat in the
"Red Lion" and swapped tales of blisters and the
like. Found a great campsite at Panpwnton farm with showers
included(first decent wash for days). Went out to eat at the
"George and Dragon" where they were doing cheap
meals for two. The chips were made from real potatoes too, not
the usual pub frozen kind with no substance
for very hungry travellers. Got provisions
in the Spar shop yet again.
|
KNIGHTON TO HERGEST RIDGE 13th June 15miles
The 6.30am train went by but we were already up and
about. Got away early with a steep climb out of Knighton but
not nearly as bad as the one we came down yesterday(take note
if you are travelling in the opposite direction). Would have
had wonderful views this morning had it not been for the rain
and mist. Had an amazing coincidence happen when we needed
water for our lunch. The Cottage where we asked for water
turned out to be owned by Ernie Kay who wrote the guide book
we were using. We were so surprised
to meet him we didn't think to ask him
to sign our book. The weather turned better and we got some
lovely views north while going up Rushock Hill. Got our first
views of the Black Mountains. Arrived in Kington and stocked
up from the Spar then headed for The Hergest Ridge. It seemed
so quiet when we first pitched the tent but later on while we
sat around our campfire it got busy with dog
walkers, cyclist and horse riders, but nobody seemed to mind us
being there. |
HERGEST RIDGE TO HATTERAL RIDGE 14th June 19miles
Woken up by the dawn chorus again. We've been followed all
the way by Skylarks. Passed through Gladestry but it was too
early for anything to be open. After Disgwylfa Hill it was
quite easy walking with gentle ups and downs until reaching
the River Wye. Finally came to Hay on Wye and ate at the
"Rose and Crown". Guess where we stocked up with
supplies then tackled the long stiff climb to get to Hay
Bluff and the Hatteral Ridge. Stopped on the way to watch and
chat to some Paragliders. Very cold wind on the ridge. My legs
were giving way again so we found a nice grassy patch to make
camp, with soup and rolls for supper washed down with a bottle
of wine. We can now see Skirrid and the Severn and feeling
close to home. |
HATERALL RIDGE TO MONMOUTH 15th June 25miles
Woke to the suns rays filtering through the clouds over
our panoramic view eastwards. Had a lot of ridge walking to do
but the views were wonderful. Al found a piece of Stone Age
flint on the path. Dropped down eventualy to Pandy where we
had a pint at the "Lancaster Arms". Lots of field
walking then with yet more stiles(very tiring)but stopped
eventually at Llangatock Lingoed at the "Hunters
Moon" for a pint and to cook our dinner in the car park
there. This was the toughest day so far as my feet (or rather
the blisters) had just about had it by then and we were
pushing ourselves to get to Monmouth to make up for lost
time. Got to Monmouth at 9.00pm . |
MONMOUTH TO CHEPSTOW 16th June 17miles
Alastair walked this last stretch on his own as I've done
it many times before and was glad to get home to see the
double glazing we'd had fitted while we were away. He walked
the next section in the dark up over the Kymin and on to
St Briavels to our home almost being attacked by badgers on the
way and stumbling over tree roots. After a sleep and shower at
home he continued to Chepstow. Lovely route past the Devils
Pulpit and views over Wintors Leap. When he eventually got to
the Severn and dipped his toes in the water I came along in
the car and picked him up. |
Wonderful experience even though there was a lot of pain
from the feet I would do it again and we are definately going
to do Wainwrights coast to coast path next year. So watch
this space. |